A few cultural observations

- New Zealanders love 80's music. It's everywhere, and (I kid you not) might get more airplay than co temporary music.
- There are heaps (to use a kiwi/Australian term) of Mexican restaurants here.
- Since NZ is an outdoors-focused society, I thought there would be lots of beards here, but there aren't.
- I had forgotten what a burden American airport security is. In NZ you don't have to take off shoes or belts and they don't care if you bring liquids onboard. The consequence of this is short lines and only needing to show up about 30 minutes prior to departure. It's really, really nice.

Leaving Wellington

This post is asynchronous with others.

Also, Bruno Mars kills it.

I'm on a flight from Wellington to Kerikeri (Bay of Islands) via Auckland. On our left I can see the South Island (specifically the Marlborough Sound) and north island, separated by the Cook Strait.

After a couple mostly relaxed days in the capital. Two days ago I went on a run, took a nap, spent a few hours at the excellent Te Papa museum, ate Malaysian food (laksa) and walked around Cuba Street to orient myself.

Yesterday Shweth and I went our separate ways. I was still feeling exhausted, so had a long workout at a gym on the waterfront and sweated in their sauna for a while, which helped. Feeling back to normal, I walked around the city toward Massey University, then over toward the cable car (the similarities with SF continue) which took me to the top of some peak. With rainy weather threatening (but not coming just yet), I looked out on the harbor before meandering down the hill through some very nice botanical gardens. There was lots to explore, and I really enjoyed the time to myself. I ended up by Parliament, then emptied onto the waterfront.

I'm obsessed with large container ships, and was lucky enough to see one turn on a dime and pull into port. It then started to pour down rain (in addition to some seriously huge wind), so I found a restaurant with a covered outdoor area go grab a beer. Drinking beer on a porch in a rainstorm is one of my favorite feelings, so I made it happen.

That evening Shweth and I went out (for New Years). We had to figure out our travel arrangements first. We screwed up and didn't book a rental car in Rotorua, and by the time we tried to book, everything was taken. Our second option would have been to rent a car in Bay of Islands and drive south, but all cars were booked there as well. We ended up changing our flights from Bay of Islands to Rotorua to go to Auckland, where we will get a rental car and then drive to Tongariro. It's a convoluted and expensive way of traveling, but it's our best option given the circumstances.

Anyway, we went out and had fun for New Years. Wellington isn't a hot spot for partying, but we had a good time.



I'm a bit tired from travel at the moment. We've been on the road for two weeks now, and I'm almost ready to come home. The next few days should be good:
- in Bay of Islands tomorrow I'll go on a dolphin cruise, where we might get to swim with the Dolphins. I booked a room through Airbnb and I'm really looking forward to meeting my hosts. They look like very welcoming people, and I need a slice of home right now. I'm doing this solo whole Shweth goes to a different location in the Bay of Islands for the entire two days there.
- Next we will hike the Tongariro Crossing. It's supposed to be one of the best one-day treks in the world, and traverses volcanos and craters.
- Finally on my last day (Shweth leaves the day after) we'll do an adventure caving thing in the Waitimo Caves, which are famous because they have a bunch of glowworms in them.

I have a pass to the Air New Zealand lounge and fully intend on using it before my flight back to the states. I'm ready to be in my own bed!

Photos:
-cable car
-botanical gardens
-ship
-my view during the Wellington rain storm
-an airplane engine in the Te Papa museum. Reminded me of Grandpa, who worked at Pratt and Whitney working on jet engines his whole life.

First impressions of Wellington

I've been in Wellington for 24 hours, and I really like this city. Despite being the capital, it's a bit funky. The downtown is very compact and walkable, and it feels like a small-ish city. The topography (hills cupping a bay), architecture (many Edwardian houses), and weather (today is drizzly and very windy) all remind me of San Francisco. I immediately feel at home here.

Many people we spoke with in NZ questioned (to say the least) our decision to come to Wellington, but I have no doubts - I'm really glad we came here. There is no bungee or skydive, and for that, I'm thankful.

Thus far I've visited the Te Papa museum (a great free museum on New Zealand history and culture), gone on a long run around the bay, and walked around Cuba Street. I ended yesterday by watching the last bit of Hot Tub Time Machine, a ridiculous and awesome movie. (Two nights ago I watched a bit of Terminator 2)

Photos below are:
- panorama of the bay during my run
- skate park near Te Papa
- lobby of our hotel, the Amora.
- mural of Biggie. His legacy looms large
- Edwardian architecture

A favorite thing...

When I travel is reading the local newspaper. I'm sitting at Sweet Mother's Kitchen's outdoor section on a drizzly, windy morning in Wellington. I bought the Wellington paper and am reading about how an 86-year old "pensioner" complained about her bus ride - the kind of story you'd read about in a small town newspaper.

My cafe latte is waking me up after a solid night's sleep, but I'm still not recovered from a huge sleep deficit accumulated over the past week.

Extra blog posts

I just realized that some of my posts were cut off. Here is the entire text from the "road not taken" post:

It's Christmas today, and I felt like spending it with Mother Nature. So, after a potluck lunch with all the folks in our hostel, I drove to Glenorchy, which is about an hour from Queenstown. An Air Force guy recommended that I go past Glenorchy toward the Routeburn trail, hike through sheep-filled pastures, up some switchbacks, and sit and admire the panoramic view. 

I reached the step ladder...

And continued on what I thought was the path, which led straight to a large creek. Feeling brave in my hiking boots, I crossed it, got my feet soaked, picked up the trail again, then promptly lost it. I looked around for a few minutes and couldn't find the trail for the life of me. Given that there were sheep all around me (who ran away when I approached, then stared me down while chewing on grass - much like the water buffalo stare down) and therefore I was on someone's property, I decided to head back to Glenorchy to find another trail. I found one, but it was short and not as remote as the first one. 

Should I have tried harder to pick up the first trail? Should I have tried to find another trail near Routeburn? I was quite inspired by the remoteness of that area. Very few people, a handful of sheep, lots of green grass, a valley, mountains, and lots of wind. I would have preferred to have stayed. The area gave me a wonderfully alone feeling that one only gets when there are very few people around. 

A couple years ago I would have beat myself up over not pursuing that trail. But now I'm better equipped to move on. I can be at peace with a missed opportunity. But it doesn't mean I won't think about what could have been. I will never know. I need to be at peace that there will be things in life that I don't or can't do. But it's ok to regret, as well.

SF

On the bus ride from the Wellington airport to downtown Wellington I was talking to a guy from the Northland. He had traveled in the US. The conversation went like this:

Him: "I love the US, especially the fast food and Las Vegas. But we didn't make it to some city in California.
Me: "Which city?"
Him: "Can't remember. The one with all the homeless people."
Me: "San Francisco?"
Him: "Yea that's the one!"

Day 8

Day 8 was tough. I did the Nevis bungee and swing in the morning, but Shweth had his skydive canceled because of weather. The plan was to drive 4 hours from Queenstown to Milford Sound so we could get sleep before our 6:30am kayak.

About a third of the way there, we came upon a horrific car accident. We arrived about 5-10 minutes after the accident had happened, and neither firemen nor paramedics were present. We saw one small SUV that was demolished, and a large RV that whose front-right was crumpled, but was otherwise in good condition. We saw one female lying on her side on the side of the road with nobody tending to her; she was not moving. Another female was about 30 feet away and a couple people were around her. A few other people were calling the paramedics. We parked our car to see if we could help. It's in these situations that I wish I had some sort of medical training. Shweth and I largely felt helpless to do anything. We had a picnic blanket, orange juice, and snacks to offer, but not much else.

We first walked to the girl with people around her. The driver of the RV was a 45-ish year old European - probably Dutch - and had his family with him. He was crying and inconsolable, and it was clear he knew he was at fault. He and his sons were pacing back and forth. The female (she was Asian, as were her travel companions) had a blanket over her, her face was bleeding in a few places, and she looked out of it. But, she looked like she would live.

The driver asked us if everyone was out of the other car. We thought "yes" because we had seen the other girl on the ground, but when we started walking over to her, we saw a male still in the crumpled car (drivers side) with his head against the steering wheel. By that time a couple people were tending to him, and a couple firemen had arrived. We then walked over to the second female, and she was in bad shape. Her right leg was badly burned. She was breathing and making a moaning sound with every breath. She was unresponsive and clearly in an unimaginable amount of pain. Some people were pouring water on her leg, and firemen were tending to her. Shweth and i shuttled water back and forth from a nearby cafe, and then held a blanket up to keep the wind out while firemen cared for the woman. I couldn't see what they were doing for her, but I had a clear view of the mangled car. All I could see was a man's hair, as his head was against the steering wheel.

Eventually firemen arrived with the jaws of life. It took them about 90 minutes to pry the man out of the car, and once they got him on a stretcher the man moved his leg, giving everyone some some hope. Two rescue helicopters arrived (we were at least an hour's drive from Queenstown) along with an American doctor. They started IVs for the man in the car (prior to getting him out of the car) and the burnt woman, and started putting gauze on the woman's wounds.

As others gave testimony to the police, I learned what happened. The RV was making a turn too fast from the left lane (New Zealanders drive on the left side) and had to cross the oncoming lane's traffic. The other car was coming in the opposite direction and they crashed almost head on. The driver of the RV tried to remove the people in the other car but couldn't. I think he saw they were burning and got a fire extinguisher and used it (I'm unclear on whether this happened before or after the female were removed from the car). A local man broke the rear window after many tries (he broke it either with the extinguisher or with his hands), and pulled the girl in the back seat out (easily, indicating she was not wearing her seatbelt) and put her on the side of the road (this was the burnt girl). He was also able to get the other girl (passenger seat) out ok.

Shweth and I stayed about two hours until we could be of no more use. We found out a couple days later that the burnt girl died and the driver was still in critical condition. We also learned that the guilty driver would be charged, have his passport taken, and sent to trial. The most likely outcome is that he will pay a punitive amount to the family of the deceased, but not face jail time (beyond the couple weeks he'll stay in NZ before the trial, presumably in jail but I'm not sure).

Accidents involving tourists, especially during the high tourist season, are common in NZ. The combination of left-side driving, powerful rental cars, and generally bad driving are the causes. A police officer told us that prior to 2007, if you were Chinese and had a drivers license, you most likely bribed an official and didn't take a driving test. So many Chinese get into accidents.

Before the accident we had been listening to a podcast called the Art of Char featuring a couple of douchebags (sorry to use that language, mom, but it's the most apt descriptor). Afterward we obviously couldn't listen to it. We felt very small and petty for worrying about life's little things.

We continued to Milford, which I'll pick up in my next blog post.

A few random photos:

Jenny, you'll recognize my mess. I've gotten slightly better at keeping things organized since Mexico, but not much. This photo is post-cleaning up.

Days 5, 6, 7

Day 5 started well - I got a good night's sleep for the first time during the trip (thanks, new pillow). In late-morning we took a 5-minute helicopter ride to Franz Josef glacier. Our guide Tom took us on a three-hour, easy hike on the glacier. We walked through a few crevasses, which appear and disappear on a weekly basis... The glacier is constantly changing, and quickly. The hike was nice - not mind blowing, but nice. My favorite part was the helicopter ride.

In the afternoon I left Shweth to drive over to a serene lake, from which I could see Mt. Cook, the highest peak in New Zealand. I swam laps from the shore, out, and back again. The water was a lot warmer than I expected. After swimming I soaked up some sun on the shore. For the rest of the evening, we worked out a a local hole-in-the-wall gym, saw a short Maori performance (apparently hakas, the famous Maori chants, aren't war songs - they're warm ups. So from now on I'm going to do a haka before my presentations), and had a beer.

Franz Josef is a small tourist town, but not obnoxiously so. Our hostel was quite good and we actually had space for our large suitcases (which, admittedly, are a bit much).

Day 6 started with a fun 30-minute trial of trying to pry our gas tank open. The drive to Queenstown is supposed to be 5 hours, but we took 10. We're learning that every drive takes twice as long as you think it will because there are amazing sights around every bend. The drive starts off in the rainforest near Fox Glacier, curves through mountains and valleys, splits two massive lakes (we stopped to swim in one), passes through Wanaka (an upper-class resort town), and ends with a spectacular descent to Queenstown.

That evening (Christmas Eve), we met up with five current Fuqua students who we met at Abel Tasman. In typical Fuqua fashion, we met up at a cheesy bar called "5 Below," which is one of two "ice bars" in Queenstown. The concept it quite dumb: take a small room, lower the temperature to 20-ish degrees, charge 35 bucks for entry (but impose a time limit of 45 minutes). I cringe at paying for such a dumb experience, but we wanted to meet up with the Fuquans so sucked it up. They were all nice people (funny how Shweth and I could plug right in - the year change but the nature of Fuqua students remains the same), and we drank a bit at their hotel after the ice bar.

Queenstown is a cross between Gatlinburg, TN (for its super-touristy shops and overall vibe) and Interlaken, Switzerland (for the preponderance of adventure sports). Only 8000 people live in Queenstown, the vast majority serving the tourism industry. It's also in the middle of some great scenery - a deep blue lake borders the city, and it's surrounded by mountains.

Superlatives are the only way to describe New Zealand, so I rate "great" as a 3 on a 5 point scale of New Zealand scenery; thus far my ratings are:

5: Lake Marian (near Milford Sound), the drive to Milford Sound

4: Milford Sound itself (but maybe this should be a 5??), the drive from Queenstown to Wanaka, Glenorchy

3: Abel Tasman, Queenstown

2: Nelson

1: Auckland (although it's still quite pretty)


Day 7 was Christmas, and no stores were open. We slept late. Folks staying at the hostel were already up cooking their native dishes for a hostel potluck. We didn't know about the potluck so didn't bring anything, but there was more than enough food so we ate and talked with other travelers (I talked with a father/son from Chile, a US Air Force guy in med school, and a Brit who runs street soccer camps in the US). Shweth stayed at the hostel to just chill out and do laundry, but I wanted to get out... Too beautiful of a day to be indoors. This was the day I went to Glenorchy (see previous post). Afterward, Shweth and I went on a long run, which I sorely needed.

That evening we had dinner with two of the most interesting people we've met thus far: a German couple (both 19 years old) on their second gap year. They were wise beyond their years, and I have to think their travels (which they are funding themselves) have helped them to be so.

Side note: of all the people I've met while traveling, Germans have struck me as some of the most intelligent and confident, but also the most anti- American, specifically regarding our consumerism, education system, and healthcare system. Most Germans I've will directly tell you they want no part of these things. On the other hand, our Franz Josef guide, Tom, wants to live in the US quite badly BECAUSE of our consumer culture. Do the Germans know something we don't? Or is it some sort of player hating? Or is it sour grapes for the first half of the 20th century? I haven't been to Germany and don't have many data points, but I think it's a combination of all three.

The drive from Franz Josef to Wanaka

I know...

I've been misspelling bungee (or bungy, as they spell it in NZ) as bungie. It annoys me too.

The west coast of NZ...

Just north of Punakiki.

The drive from Glenorchy to Queenstown

(Hope this movie can be seen on the blog...)

Day 4: drive down the west coast

The previous night, Shweth snd I watched the last Hobbit movie in the theater. It was filmed in NZ so we saw a bunch of sites we'll see (I think), like Glenorchy and Tongariro Crossing.

The first few hours of drive from Nelson to the west coast passes through some beautiful, idyllic sheep-filled valleys, and rivers. We stopped at Westport for a quick lunch then drove south on the coast. Having driven south from SF many times, I'm quite spoiled when it comes to costal scenery. Still, the "wild west coast" was still quite stunning. It's different than the california coast in that it's more rugged - the beach quickly ascends into mountains, leaving little room for houses. So, you have the feeling of being quite remote.

We stopped at the "pancake rocks," which are rock formations that have many exposed layers... They look like pancakes. They were kind of interesting, but mostly... They're just rocks. In the parking lot we ran into yet another current Fuqua student.

It doesn't get dark here until about 9:30, which really distorts your sense of time. We arrived in Hokitika, a small town known for their jade products (jade is harvested from rivers near Hokitika), around 5. Only one jade shop was open: Heritage Jade. We talked to this young guy Colin Davidson, who owned the shop and made everything he sold. Fun conversation, mostly about dating and the differences between city folk and country folk.

Most everything in NZ closes around 4:30pm (inexplicably... I guess everyone just goes home), so we ate at one of the few restaurants open and continued on to Franz Josef. I slept about 10 hours - so, so needed after a few nights of poor sleep. Buying that pillow was a master stroke.

A few bungie and swing photos

Me, pre-coffee and pre-jump

And why?

This morning I jumped the world's second highest bungie, and went on the world's highest swing (upside down and backwards). Does it make me stupid or brave that I wasn't nervous. Ok, maybe a little nervous as I walked out to the ledge before jumping. You do have the thought "why the hell am I doing this?" but then it's over before you know it. Would I do it again? Hell yeah.

At the swing I met a couple cool Brazilian guys who have been traveling for 6 months. One guy had worked as an engineer for 6 years and had gotten totally stressed out, so he quit to travel the world. Only 1.5 years until my FSG sabbatical. I will definitely be taking 6 months.

Here's a video of my swing... Hope it works.

The road not traveled, being ok with that, yet still wanting it

It's Christmas today, and I felt like spending it with Mother Nature. So, after a potluck lunch with all the folks in our hostel, I drove to Glenorchy, which is about an hour from Queenstown. An Air Force guy recommended that I go past Glenorchy toward the Routeburn trail, hike through sheep-filled pastures, up some switchbacks, and sit and admire the panoramic view.

I reached the step ladder...

NZ Day 3

Hostel pillows suck. I hadn't stayed in a hostel since 2009 until this trip, and had forgotten this little fact. Luckily, Bed Bath & Beyond exists in NZ so I bought myself a genuine lambs wool pillow for 20 bucks. It even smells like lamb. Really. And I love it.

Our hostel in Nelson was serviceable, but the room quite cramped. After going to bed with a headache and walking up with one (I can't quit these damn things!), the cool air from our 45-minute drive to Abel Tasman national park cured me for the day.

Here's what we did:
- booked a full day kayak and hike with the Sea Kayak Company. Our group was 6 people. We kayaked to a nature sanctuary island where about 400 fur seals live. Learned a bit about the seals, but it definitely wasn't a nature tour. The seals were really cool. A few swam under our kayaks and generally checked us out, but they weren't too concerned with our presence. After a quick lunch on the beach, Shweth and I walked about 3 hours to where our boat would take us back to the starting point. On the beach we ran into a current Fuqua student who is traveling with 3 other Fuqua folks. (Also, the next day we met another current Fuqua student at the pancake rocks at Punakiki... Shweth had been wearing Duke shirts every day, so people notice him). Tonight we're staying in queenstown and will meet up with the Fuqua people and drink at a place called Ice Bar. Anyway, on the way back from Abel Tasman we talked to two Vietnamese who worked 6 days picking apples, which funded a 7th day of vacation.
- I liked Nelson a lot. It reminded me of Mendoza, Argentina (although a bit smaller) and Nevada City, California (although probably 3 times Nevada City's size). Very chill town.
- after we got back from Abel Tasman, Shweth went to see a Cinderella pantomime show at a local theater while I went to a Sunday evening Anglican church service. I figured it would be interesting in some regard. Some of my most memorable travel moments have been going to church services (including a few in Mexico), so... Why not. It was a very strange service. At one point the priest asked people to come to the front and speak about whatever they wanted. Two women came up and said they had had visions/that God spoke to them that day. Lots of hands raised in the air. I left 25 minutes into a very rambling sermon. Sorry mom - I couldn't take it and I needed to go eat!

That's all the update I can muster for now. Just got to our hostel in Queenstown and it's bro central. Need to shower and go out.

Here's some photos:

Quaint downtown Nelson

Somewhere between glaciers and fjords

Shweth and I are driving from Franz Josef glacier to Queenstown (a 5-ish hour drive). I took a quick nap and woke up to this. The feeling is that of Yosemite Valley, but with a more powerful river and far less people. This is my favorite view thus far.

New Zealand - Day 1

Bookish Dave is back. It's been too long.

My friend Shweth and I will be in New Zealand from now through January 5th. Shweth is a friend of mine from Duke and who also lives in SF, and we're already proving to be good travel partners. Unfortunately, as I write this (in the Auckland airport on our way to the South Island) he's talking to his boss at Apple. So much for disconnecting at this moment. Still, we both want to go back to the states feeling like we've had great adventures and learned things, but also healthy and rested. Yesterday we went on a 30-minute run, and today we started by going to a gym - great way to stay centered while traveling.

My related goal is to detox from my cell phone. The past few months I'v been particularly compulsive about checking my phone, so hopefully I can break that habit with some forced detox.

The direct flight from SFO to Auckland was a piece of cake. I watched Boyhood, ate dinner, and slept for 8 hours. At one point I got up to use the restroom and halfway expected to see my sister Jenny somewhere on the plane - I've taken my last two big vacations with her. Anyway, the time difference between SF and New Zealand is 21 hours, but we only cross three time zones. Hence, very little jet lag. My flight arrived around 6am, and as I waited for Shweth had a coffee in the cool air and watched airport employees and travelers (paying particular attention to the Maori). Our driver arrived and promptly said in a thick Kiwi accent "hold a moment boys, I need to go take a shit," which he did. He was quite a character. Shweth and I went on a run to Mission Bay and hung out there for a while, and walked up to some lookout point, where an annoying Brazilian guy couldn't figure out his iPhone and I volunteered Shweth to help him ("this guy MADE that iPhone!"). After some shopping for shampoo and other provisions, we headed to a bar with Mita and her friend Dee, and ended up at Dee's awesome apartment (see photo of the Auckland skyline, taken from her rooftop deck). Of course upon seeing such a view, I want it for myself. Someday I'll have a room with a view... This WILL happen.

I like Auckland. It's very relaxed. Very little crime. A bit expensive.

Our cab driver this morning, Matatia, was an interesting dude. He's about 50, from the small island called Tivola (??) near Fiji, used to work in an engine room on a big container ship. He said he likes the U.S. because we saved his island from the Japanese. He also liked Rio because they had the best women of all his ports of call. Matatia, the other cab driver, Mita, and Dee quickly remind me of the joy of not only meeting new people, but of exchanging information with them. Talking about what people know and think and telling them what you know - definitely a big rush.

Signing off for now. Here are a few photos.

I Am the Decisive Element

As I set goals for 2014, I recall these two quotes that North Stars for our Outward Bound trek a couple years ago.

I have come to the frightening conclusion that I am the decisive element. It is my personal approach that creates the climate. It is my daily mood that makes the weather. I possess tremendous power to make life miserable or joyous. I can be a tool of torture or an instrument of inspiration, I can humiliate or humor, hurt or heal. In all situations, it is my response that decides whether a crisis is escalated or de-escalated, and a person is humanized or de-humanized. If we treat people as they are, we make them worse. If we treat people as they ought to be, we help them become what they are capable of becoming.

- Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

Why don't you stay in the wilderness?  Because that isn't where its at; it's back in the city, back in downtown St. Louis, back in Los Angeles.  The final test is whether your experience of the sacred in nature enables you to cope more efficiently with the problems of man.  if it does not enable you to cope more effectively with the problems - and sometimes it doesn't, sometimes it just sucks you right out into the wilderness and you stay there the rest of your life - then when that happens, by my scale of value, it's failed.  You go to nature for an experience of the sacred... to re-establish your contact with the core of things, where it's really at, in order to enable you to come back into the world of man and operate more effectively.  Seek ye first the kingdom of nature, that the kingdom of man might be realized.

Willi Unsoeld