Friday, July 1, 2016

Europe, Day 1

Europe is hilarious. There's no other way to put it: it's just so... European. Eggs on hamburgers, stylish, tight quarters, electronic music, bottled water. It's all true.

I'm flying WOW air, which is Icelandic. They're a budget airline, but have possibly the nicest employees of any airlines I've flown. My bag was checked to Reykjavik, but because the flight was late I had to choose between getting my bag or getting my flight. I chose to fly on to Copenhagen then Budapest. Luckily, I've got a day's worth of clothing in my carry-on, so I'll be fine.

I finished packing last night around 11:45pm, and couldn't help but watch the Game of Thrones season finale. So I've been sleepy the entire trip.


Leaving SF, looking down highway 1.

Monday, March 21, 2016

My bike accident

On Valentine's Day I was biking near Glen Ellen in Sonoma County with my friend Shweth. It was a beautiful day – about 75° and sunny – and both of us were pumped up the riding. Outside of the Glen Ellen market we spoke with the guy who had polio as a child and was paralyzed from the waist down. Yet, he could still pedal with his hands on a modified bike, and was planning to bike all over Italy later this year. Little did I know that an hour later I'd have my own physical disabilities.

About 45 minutes into our ride we took right turn to go downhill on a small two-lane country road. I checked my phone briefly to confirm we were going in the right direction. Either as a result of my checking my phone or generally being enraptured by the beautiful day, failed to process that a sharp right turn was coming up. I took the turn way too fast and went straight across the median. The road did not have much of a shoulder and there was a large ditch beyond the side of the road. There is also a barb wire fence, which I did not see at time; the paramedic told me about it later.

It's true what they say - "it all happens so quickly." As I tried to regain my balance I saw a big RV coming in the opposite direction. I thought for a split second, "maybe I can slip between the RV in the ditch." I almost called my balance in the gravel on the side of the road, but was not able to sustain it. I looked up, recognized that I was about to run into a big oak tree, and slammed into it going about 20 mph. Shweth had not yet come around the bend he heard a big thud. The RV stopped and protected me from any traffic. The passenger in the RV was a nurse (lucky me!). Shweth didn't see me as he biked past because RV was covering me by the nurse waved him down. If there's anything that chokes me up retelling of the story it's that Shweth ran back to me. I think he was much more concerned about my health than I was.

As I laid on the gravel, I was certain that I had mangled my left arm. I didn't want to look at it for fear of seeing a gruesome sight. When I was 15 I broke both my radius and my ulna at a soccer tournament in Atlanta. I looked down to see my left hand about an inch above the plane of my arm, and proceeded to shout many profanities that I'm sure shocked all the parents in the crowd. Until that point they probably thought that I was a mild-mannered, well spoken young man

With the nurse and Shweth hovering over me, I told Shweth to take a couple pictures. He thought I was joking at first. Somebody called 911 and luckily an ambulance was nearby – I think I waited about 20 minutes with them to arrive. In the meantime, the European doctor showed up – he was pretty useless. Then a Park Ranger showed up and put gauze on my left arm. Out of an abundance of caution the paramedics and firemen put me in one of those neck braces for people that have spinal cord injuries. They put me on a hard stretcher, strapped me in, and loaded me into the ambulance. The firemen took my bike to the fire station, where Shweth met them to claim the bike. Amazingly, my bike was not damaged at all. What I think happened is that put out my left arm slightly to brace myself, slammed into the tree (which popped my left elbow out of place), hit the tree with my left chest (causing some road rash), then fell to the side of the road. I didn't hit my head, or if I did my helmet protected me. As the paramedic told me, I'm a lucky guy. I have all my teeth, my neck is not broken, and I didn't get hit by the RV nor did I run into the barb wire fence.

All and all I was very calm after the accident. I was in pain but adrenaline was keeping that pain manageable I was coherent and talking to everyone. I enjoyed my conversation with the paramedic on the way to the hospital.

At the Santa Rosa Memorial Hospital, it was determined through x-rays and CT scan that I had dislocated my left elbow and broken my left radius (up toward my wrist). The doctor told me "were going to put your elbow back in place but you're not in the know it happened. In about 10 minutes you're going to say to us 'when are we going to put my all that back in place' and we will say to you 'we already did it.'" That's exactly what happened. Thank goodness for sophisticated anesthesia.

They also took an x-ray of my right wrist but determined that there was no broken bone there.

They put me in a pretty heavy duty splint that covered my entire left arm. I spent about six hours in the hospital, and then Shweth and I drove back to San Francisco. Well, Shweth drove. On the way we went to about three or four drugstores to see if they had pain medication but no one was open. I was in pain but it was not unbearable. Meagan came to pick me up at Shweth's place, and helped me get my medication and took the rental car back.

The following day was a holiday so I laid low. I was instructed to see an orthopedic surgeon as soon as possible, which I did on Tuesday. The surgeon, at UCSF, said that I would likely need surgery, but she wanted to pass me off to one of her colleagues who is an expert in elbow reconstruction. The doctor was also concerned about large bone fragment near my radial head, which she said might need to see her since it is in the middle of an important ligament. I was a bit concerned that I had done some really big damage to my elbow.

Throughout that week I continued to work from home. Both of my cases were in very busy times and to be honest I did need to work. My bosses were extremely understanding yet I powered through. I don't regret doing this, but it was a struggle… Especially one day where I was on the phone for at least eight hours. Toward the end of the week my right wrist started hurting more. I remember on Sunday evening I was watching Downton Abbey, picked up a cup of hot chocolate, and had to put it down immediately because my hand hurt so much. The following Monday (one week after the accident) I saw the elbow specialist. She conducted a fluoroscan (kind of like a live x-ray) and quickly saw that I had a broken right scaphoid, which is a bone in your hand. The doctor told me to stop working, which I promptly did.

My mom flew out here before my Monday appointment, and it was apparent from the moment she got here that I needed help doing just about everything.

On Wednesday afternoon we had a bit of a scare because of stupid bureaucracy. Long story short, I didn't talk to the anesthesiologist in time and they said my surgery would have to be postponed by at least two weeks because of that. It was a total bureaucratic f-up on their part. I made a number of phone calls and pleaded with a few people and was able to go forward with the surgery. I just about flipped out at the prospect of having to wait another two weeks for surgery

I had surgery on Thursday at UCSF. Part of the surgery was exploratory because they needed to see how strong my elbow was. Based on this assessment they would either reattach my ligament, take out the bone fragment, use a cadaver ligament, or do nothing. They determined that my elbow was pretty weak, but the ligament was strong enough to reattach (instead of using a cadaver ligament). They took my torn ligament, sutured it into a screw, and screwed it into my left elbow (I'm not sure which bone). They also put a screw in my right scaphoid. I left the hospital that afternoon with another full arm splint on my left and a forearm splint on my right.

On Saturday evening mom and I had to go to the ER to get pressure relief on my left arm. Swelling from surgery pinched a nerve, causing my left thumb to go pretty numb. This isn't a cause for long-term worry as I will very likely get full feeling back within 12 months.

Ever since then I have been recovering. A week after surgery they took off the splints, gave me a cast on my left forearm, gave me a hinged brace on my left arm, and gave me a removable brace on my right forearm. I've been going to occupational therapy twice a week and am making progress. It's going to be a long recovery: I can't play sports for another 9 to 12 months, I can't lift anything more than 1 to 2 pounds for another month, and I will be out of work until at least early May. I'm taking short-term disability, which gives me 60% of my paycheck. I'll take it. In another blog post I'll try to write about what I've been learning around this whole ordeal, such as listening to your body, the absolute necessity of people to take care of you and relying on their love and kindness, the difficulty of going slow (very different from how I normally operate!), the wonderful feeling of passing off my work to other people, and it takes forever to do anything and I actually don't have much free time, and appreciation for competent professionals. In the meantime, here are some photos.







Saturday, June 6, 2015

Made it back

Jenny and I were a bit nervous about whether we'd have trouble coming back through U.S. immigration. We were both completely honest - we said on customs forms that we had been to Cuba. Neither of us had any problem getting through. They didn't ask any questions at all.

Leaving the Havana airport was a different story. Just as we had been questioned coming into the country, we were questioned going out (well, I was questioned on behalf of Jenny and me, which she took offense to). Where did we go? What addresses? You had three electronic devices when you entered the country... Do you still have them? Show me. Did you interview anybody?

I was wearing a Piggly Wiggly tshirt, so the last question was "what is piggly wiggly," with a smile.

The woman was just doing her job. She was very pleasant.

We had a bit of culture shock in Mexico. From the airport we took a new taxi, passed by a Vips and Walmart, and stayed at a very nice B and B (same one we stayed at a year ago). Mexico city's level of development is much higher than Havana's. It was very noticeable.

Day 13: Trinidad - Havana - Mexico DF

We are in a taxi on the 4-hour drive to Havana. Cost: 80 dollars. We're going to make a quick stop at Aymee's place (our Casa in Havana) to say goodbye. It's an overcast day, which is an appropriate transition back to SF. We are both ready to go home. We're thankful to be in a car with air conditioning, and it strikes me that I'm going back to a city with driverless cars being tested on the highway.

So what's my bottom line on this trip? I'm glad we went, and I'm glad we went now. Jenny and I came here (instead of going to Europe) because we wanted to see Cuba before it changes. Indeed, many things had already changed in the 5 years prior to our arrival. To come back here in the future - whether 2 years or 20 - would be fascinating. 

And I hope, for the sake of Cubans, that things do change. Wal-Mart would blow these people's minds. They have access to the New York Times and Facebook, but can only access them at small Internet cafes (They can text and send email over cellular data, but nothing else). Their medical system, I have determined, is not what Michael Moore would have you believe in the movie Sicko (it was that movie when he chartered a boat to cuba to get their free healthcare for a couple veterans, right?). Dad, I'm sure you'll find that comment satisfying, but don't read too much into it. Would you rather have surgery in a place where they have to recycle latex gloves? I would not. 

The country is clean relative to other developing countries, but it's infrastructure is poorly maintained. 

It has a highly-literate population, but a common complaint is that if you graduate from university, there's a high chance you won't get the job you want, because "no jobs are available." A saying here is that "we pretend to work for the government, and the government pretends to pay us."

I'm sure you've eaten vaca frita in the States - it and ropa Vieja are the two "typical Cuban dishes" you'll find in the US. Well, we only found one restaurant with vaca frita. The son of our casa owner in Trinidad - 24 years old and very in touch - had never heard of it. "It's made of beef? Beef is like God in Cuba. It's so expensive."  

The markets are what you'd expect of the Soviet Union - rows of the same products and long lines. 

It seems that much of Cubans' time is spent fixing their old cars (a common sight in Havana and elsewhere). Yet, the old cars are beautiful and unique. This is just one of many paradoxes that abound in Cuba. 

Cuba is a poor country. To a certain extent, Cubans know what they are missing. There is a general feeling that the end of the U.S. blockade will help things. I believe this to be true. As one Casa owner told us, "the only thing the blockade helps is the government. It hurts the regular people." I find it ridiculous that Marco Rubio and Robert Menendez would claim otherwise. This is bald faced political pandering. Let's call it what it is. 

At the same time, many Cubans are cautious. Our casa owner in Havana waited two years to start her casa business because she wasn't sure if the government would honor its commitment to allow private businesses. The 24-year old in Trinidad lives "with his feet on the ground," meaning he doesn't get caught up in the hype of change. Cubans have so much history with one system and a government they don't trust - why start now?

I'm sure that corporations are licking their chops at opening new markets in Cuba. I bet development professionals are doing the same. I hope that whatever changes comes will be done responsibly. It would be a shame if companies extracted more than invested. We've seen this model too much in the world... Hopefully we've learned enough to do it right this time. Somehow I doubt that cuba will change as quickly as Myanmar has. There will be a leadership vacuum after Raul, and the word is that the congress (or whatever they call it) are old and sycophantic. If Raul stayed in power for another 20 years (which he obviously won't), I don't believe things would change quickly. A lot depends on the next leader, in my halfway-informed opinion. 

As for the personal side of this trip, I can't say it was the easiest vacation. Food poisoning that lasted 6 days didn't help. Neither did hot weather during the day. After three trips together, Jenny and I know how to travel with one another. We're on the same page about most things. We still annoy each other (many times intentionally), but are overall good travel partners. 

Before this trip I had illusions of doing a bike trip on the island. This would have been the worst idea in the world. I wasn't that impressed with the physical beauty of the island, with the exception of Vinales (which was pretty awesome). It's an island with a bunch of farmland and a couple small mountain ranges. Plus, the ability to stop at some quaint roadside hut with  delicious fruit - I wouldn't count on it.

The best thing about our trip was meeting Cuban people. While we definitely encountered a few tricksters and a few times when we got the "I'm going to move really slowly and do so with a bored look on my face because this guy is a tourist," the vast majority were very kind and welcoming. All three of our casas were home runs. No surprise, people are the same in Cuba as they are in most places: they want to share their country with you, they want to help you, they want to learn from you. When we introduced ourselves as Americans, the response was one of happiness (that we are curious enough to come to their country), surprise (that we would), and curiosity (why we came). Most people don't talk politics. They'll say something like "our countries don't like each other but that's just between governments, not regular people." (They'll also ask things like "I heard that in the US you all have tinted windows on your cars"). We made some real connections, especially with our hosts. I hope we can host them in the States someday. 

They say that Cuba is like going back in time. This is a good thing in that you feel a bit more human, being free from advertisements and a hectic pace of life. It's frustrating in that those modern conveniences (cellular Internet, Lyft, supermarkets) simply don't exist here. Life is more fundamental, but also more difficult.

Overall, it was a successful trip. We saw a strange anachronistic city (Havana), a beautiful and rural valley (Vinales), and a colonial and musical town (Trinidad). I feel much more informed about Cuba, a place that to many people is a mystery. 

Next year... I'm thinking Germany, Belgium, the Netherlands, Denmark, or Norway. 


Aymee, our wonderful casa owner in Havana


Argentine steakhouse in Mexico City (where we ate one year ago). We ate... a ton.




Day 12: Trinidad (third full day)

We're ready to come home, but with one last full day we decided to take a train ride around the Valle de Los Ingenios. Bless the folks who run the train, but the ride was underwhelming to say the least. (At this moment I really hope I don't sound like a snob. I don't think I am, and jenny and I always put on a good face for everyone: "the food was delicious! The train ride was fun!"  But the reality is that the tourist infrastructure is not strong in Cuba. You have to appreciate what it is, and not what you want it to be). 

It was basically a 6-hour open-air train ride into the country and back. I love trains, and quite enjoyed the breeze. We made two stops: one at a small town where you could walk up a tower where the overseer would observe slaves working in the sugar fields, and another at an old plantation house. The house was kind of interesting in that it revealed a hard life: living in the heat, far from town. Of course this is the case in many other parts of the world. We stayed at the house 30 minutes longer than scheduled while we waited for a few members of our group to eat lunch. Jenny and I chatted with a nice German couple while we waited. It was hot as hell. 

Later, Jenny and i serendipitously found an international hotel that felt like an oasis. Very happy, we ate hamburger and croquettes. 

That evening it rained again. I tasted some expensive-ish rum (delicious) back at the hotel and checked internet. 

Retrofitted bus on train tracks


On the train ride



Jenny's sweaty back. It's hot in Cuba





Hotel!


Happy to be eating hamburgers


Our casa - built in the 1700s, I believe




Rain






Rum


Saul, our casa owner's son