Regreso a Mexico

(typing quickly from my iPhone because I refuse to use a computer while on vacation...)

It's hard to believe, but the last time I was in Mexico was in december of 2003, after I had been here for 4 months learning Spanish. I had such an affection for the country after my months here, and it took me a while to get back.

On Friday I landed in cabo San Jose airport after a 3-hour flight from SFO. I rented a car (upgraded to a jetta so I could plug in my iPhone for music, and to make damn sure that what happened in brazil - a broke down rental - didn't happen again). In immigration I saw the typical idiot American with a 10x jumbo size sombrero. He was undoubtedly going to cabo San Lucas. I was very happy to drive straight through cabo on my way to the more tranquil environs of Todos Santos (not to be confused with Poco Santo, the Mexican town in The Three Amigos). I stopped by a local taco joint in san jose (taqueria mexico) recommended by the rental car guy, then drive straight up the coast.

Cabo is exactly what you think it is - nice hotels like the Westin, etc, but you could pretty much call it "las Vegas," "cancun," or any other mega resort enclave... They're all the same. I read in Lonely Planet that Sammy Hagar's birthday is a legit, big time event in cabo. Pass.

The weather was actually quite rare for this area at this time of year - clouds, lightning, but not much rain. It made for some dramatic scenery on the 1:45 drive from the airport to Todos Santos. The highway is still being worked on in preparation for the G20 meetings in june, but definitely passable. There's not much between cabo and todos santos, so I put the window down, cranked up my music, and enjoyed the scenery.

I had no idea where my hotel was, but since the town is small I figured I'd find it, which I did. The hotel is a converted home of an old sugar cane baron. Really cool place. 7 rooms, courtyard, small pool, library, bar, and restaurant. All the reading materials are in English. Telling.

Anyway, I was happy to have picked a good hotel, and after a few moments of "ok, what the hell do I do now?" I went to sleep at 10.

In the morning (today), I woke up after one of the best nights of sleep ive had in a long time... Solid 10 hours. Breakfast (included in my stay) was an omelette, fresh oj, and fresh fruit. Great way to start the day.

I left to drive 20 minutes to the surf lesson beach, but somehow missed the turn. So I pulled into a residential area and asked a few bystanders, and one woman told me how to get there and asked if I could take her and her runny nose baby there. Why not.

With my personal guide, we made it to the beach (she also told me about her family's ranch in the mountains that hosts tourists... Probably won't have time for it this trip, though).

Surf lessons with Mario. Mario is Mexican but speaks perfect English. E set me up with one of his instructors, Carlos. I did pretty well. The lesson was short, but I picked it up pretty quickly. He said tomorrow we'll tackle some bigger waves. Believe me, they're pretty big waves. I'm excited.

After some lounging at the beach and talking to mario and a few gringos that came by, I came back to the hotel and went out for lunch. Delicious, gourmet stuff, and I took my time. Chocolate mousse for desert? Yes please.

I walked around todos santos, which took all of 45 minutes. There is more, but I didn't feel like walking into any art galleries or buy any trinkets, so figured I'd go on a run later to explore. I read at the hotel for a couple hours and talked to some more gringo hotel guests. After asking Pepe, the hotel caretaker, what he was drinking (wine), he gave me a glass on the house.

I went for a run in the "real" todos santos, showered up, then went to the local theater. On my run the guy in front asked me to come back at 8. I couldn't understand what actually happened at 8 - either bingo or a theater production. Turned out to be a theater thing. There were about 10 people in the audience. I figured it would be nice to have some local culture, but this was painful. Fail. I left quietly after 30 minutes. (the play was about old women who try to hire a male stripper).

I had dinner at a normal place, and spoke Spanish with the waiter. Funny thing about everyone here - they will not speak spanish to you. Even if you keep on speaking Spanish, they try I speak English. Granted, most f the tourists here are older art gallery-types who probably don't know a lick of Spanish themselves (I'm judging here, but am probably right). So I get it. But it's annoying - not that they speak English, but that this town is overridden by gringos.

I came back to the hotel and Pepe was watching a boxing match on the computer, so I got a glass of port (my favorite) and watched it with him and the night watchman. NOW I could speak some spanish! The night watchman had some pretty graphic things to say when the obligatory "hot women in Mexican beer ads" came on. I can't repeat specifics here. He knew a few choice American words, and used them awkwardly.

... And that's the day. In between my activities I did a good amount of reading. Tomorrow is more surfing, and I will try to finish the book i started on the plane flight here. It's a smarty-pants book on behavioral economics and global development. I like it.

In all, a very good day. I'm resisting the urge to do stuff; rather, I'm adopting the muy tranquilo vibe of this town.

Bedtime.