Some Cubans, like those in many other countries, are good at being your friend, then asking for money to feed their children. A few nights ago, we ran into a brother and sister on the street. They seemed sincere and spoke English fairly well. We said we were going to dinner and casually asked where they recommended. Knowing full well that they'd probably recommend some place where they either get a kickback (this is what happens in India and many other places), we still thought they'd recommend a decent place. We were right. Nevertheless, we guessed that they wanted something from us when they asked (in an easy way) if they could sit with us. I've had this happen to me - where you think it's a dinner amongst new friends, but when the bill comes it's expected that you pay. I'm not sure whether this is perceived by the local as a fair exchange (for their companionship), charity (because Americans are wealthier), or outright trickery. I think the answer is a combination of the three. Anyway, I politely said that we'd gladly pay for their drinks, but not dinner. They said thanks for the drinks and that they didn't expect us to pay for dinner. I didn't want to be mean, but I didn't want to have an awkward exchange later, either. They stayed another 10 minutes but were clearly less interested in conversation after I said what I did. Maybe they were offended. I don't know.
So, today we walked into the Universidad de Havana, which is right across the street from our casa. Immediately a middle aged guy came up to us and said he teaches at the university. Without asking, he proceeded to show us around - the tank that Fidel rode into Havana, the house where Fidel lived when hatching up the revolution. Then he invited us to continue the conversation over a drink. Suspicious, we said yes. After 5 minutes he asked for money to buy his two young children some milk (while at the same time asking us to buy him another drink). I was about to comment that he could have used the money spent on the drink for his kids, but thankfully, Jenny is more graceful than I am and changed the subject.
So we parted ways with the guy.
Was he a nice guy who wanted to talk with foreigners (as he claimed at the beginning, saying that since Cubans couldn't travel abroad until recently, this is how he learned about the world)? Was he a charlatan? I have no idea.
I asked him what Cubans thought of the US. He said everyone is taught that the US is the worst place in the world for everything. He also asked (with a wry smile) if there is a lot of violence in the US. Specifically, violence in schools.
Later that day...
We took a 3-hour taxi ride in a 1954 Ford to Vinales (cost: 50 dollars, vs 20 for the bus. Definitely worth it). Our driver was a tough guy... Kinda looked like a gangster. Jenny offered him some fruit with a smile, and he seemed to soften a bit. We stopped on the side of the road where he brusquely said "urinar" and made use of s bush. A few quick thoughts before heading to bed:
- I immediately like Vinales. It's a valley in the country, and is surrounded by mogotes, which look like small, craggy mountains. I've spoken so much about my affinity for non-urban places. One of these days...
- our hostess is traveling tomorrow to have a fibrosis removed. She's very nervous about the surgery, and starts crying when she thinks of the dirty hospital she'll be having surgery in. She has been waiting to have the surgery for 8 years). Her husband Adel, who is very sincere and open when talking about how things really are in cuba, has had surgery three times. The last time in the hospital he noticed nurses not wearing gloves and they said they didn't have any. While cuba (and other countries) love to talk about how Cuban doctors are the best in the world, the reality, according to Adel, is that the hospitals themselves are a shame - they, like the rest of the country's infrastructure, is in shambles. He asked us "if you were going to have surgery would you rather have it in the states or in Cuba?"
(Update: I'm at a local clinic right now and in the patio, there are about 20 pairs of latex gloves lying in the sun. I assume they are being washed, dried, and re-used).
- we went to dinner with a young couple from England. Great conversation about many things, with a view of the valley.
Note from our casa owners asking for clothing
View from restaurant of Vinales
So, today we walked into the Universidad de Havana, which is right across the street from our casa. Immediately a middle aged guy came up to us and said he teaches at the university. Without asking, he proceeded to show us around - the tank that Fidel rode into Havana, the house where Fidel lived when hatching up the revolution. Then he invited us to continue the conversation over a drink. Suspicious, we said yes. After 5 minutes he asked for money to buy his two young children some milk (while at the same time asking us to buy him another drink). I was about to comment that he could have used the money spent on the drink for his kids, but thankfully, Jenny is more graceful than I am and changed the subject.
So we parted ways with the guy.
Was he a nice guy who wanted to talk with foreigners (as he claimed at the beginning, saying that since Cubans couldn't travel abroad until recently, this is how he learned about the world)? Was he a charlatan? I have no idea.
I asked him what Cubans thought of the US. He said everyone is taught that the US is the worst place in the world for everything. He also asked (with a wry smile) if there is a lot of violence in the US. Specifically, violence in schools.
Later that day...
We took a 3-hour taxi ride in a 1954 Ford to Vinales (cost: 50 dollars, vs 20 for the bus. Definitely worth it). Our driver was a tough guy... Kinda looked like a gangster. Jenny offered him some fruit with a smile, and he seemed to soften a bit. We stopped on the side of the road where he brusquely said "urinar" and made use of s bush. A few quick thoughts before heading to bed:
- I immediately like Vinales. It's a valley in the country, and is surrounded by mogotes, which look like small, craggy mountains. I've spoken so much about my affinity for non-urban places. One of these days...
- our hostess is traveling tomorrow to have a fibrosis removed. She's very nervous about the surgery, and starts crying when she thinks of the dirty hospital she'll be having surgery in. She has been waiting to have the surgery for 8 years). Her husband Adel, who is very sincere and open when talking about how things really are in cuba, has had surgery three times. The last time in the hospital he noticed nurses not wearing gloves and they said they didn't have any. While cuba (and other countries) love to talk about how Cuban doctors are the best in the world, the reality, according to Adel, is that the hospitals themselves are a shame - they, like the rest of the country's infrastructure, is in shambles. He asked us "if you were going to have surgery would you rather have it in the states or in Cuba?"
(Update: I'm at a local clinic right now and in the patio, there are about 20 pairs of latex gloves lying in the sun. I assume they are being washed, dried, and re-used).
- we went to dinner with a young couple from England. Great conversation about many things, with a view of the valley.
Note from our casa owners asking for clothing
View from restaurant of Vinales
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